This trip was my dad’s idea, a father-daughter adventure to explore Bosnia, a country he wanted to cross off his travel list. We landed in Sarajevo, a city tucked into the mountains, and I was instantly charmed.

Sarajevo is layered in architecture and history. Ottoman mosques stand beside Austro-Hungarian facades, and cobblestone alleys of old town open into sharp lines of a modern city. A place where sounds of the adhan and church bells echo across the same valley.

This is a city that has endured, and that endurance is everywhere. Graveyards edge into parks and hillsides, with headstones younger than me. Apartment buildings still carry marks of gunfire. The scars of Sarajevo are not hidden. They are part of the landscape, part of the story.

Where We stayed
We stayed at Hotel Europe, right in the heart of Sarajevo. The location was perfect, just steps from Baščaršija, the old bazaar. We had easy access to coffee shops, bakeries, and historic sites. The staff was kind and we enjoyed our stay.

A small tip for future guests: the hotel does not provide hair conditioner. If that’s something you rely on, be sure to bring your own.

What We Ate
When you google “best burek in Sarajevo,” Buregdžinica Sač is the name that pops up. It’s tucked away in a narrow alley, with a handful of outdoor tables pressed against old stone walls. We liked it, but my favorite burek was from Pekara Edin, a tiny bakery across from Sebilj Square (also known as Pigeon Square).

Pekara Edin across from Sebilj Square (Pigeon Square). My pick for the best burek.

And then the ćevapi, of course. Tiny grilled kebabs in soft somun bread, served with raw onions and a dollop of kajmak. (At most restaurants the kajmak is extra and you have to ask for it, so don’t forget!)

Ćevabdžinica Željo served the best we tried. It’s always crowded and getting a table feels like a game of musical chairs. You hover, you wait, and the moment someone stands up you move fast. Locals and tourists fill the street, watching tables, edging closer, but don’t fret, the wait is never long because the turnover is constant. I like kebabs with a little texture, and here the meat was juicy with just enough char on the crust. I loved it. Completely worth the wait.

What We Did

We enjoyed the cable car up Trebević Mountain. At the top, there’s a walking path that runs along the ridge with wide views over Sarajevo. It’s an easy, scenic walk, and there are plenty of smaller trails that lead into the woods if you want to explore further. You’ll also find the old bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympics, still there among the trees.

Our favorite part of the trip was our tour with Meet Bosnia, led by our guide Amela and our driver Admir. Amela was engaging and detailed, sharing stories that brought the history and culture of the region to life. Admir was attentive, and made the long day feel easy. We had a wonderful time with them and walked away richer in knowledge and in experience.

We drove through winding mountain roads that were just built last year! One of my favorite stops was Blagaj Tekija, a 16th-century Sufi monastery perched where the mountain meets the water. The spring of the Buna River flows cool and clear from a cave beneath towering cliffs, creating a serene, almost magical spot for thoughtful reflection.

My favorite moment from that day was watching my dad make Friday prayer at the mosque in Počitelj, in the Ottoman-era village. Just as we climbed the stairs to the top, the Khutbah began. For him, it was a moment of divine timing atop the mountain, surrounded by pomegranate trees.

And for me, a memory I will always cherish.

mountains and memories: exploring bosnia with my dad